# '07 Mazda 3 - Front-end clunk, not control arm **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** mazda\ **Created:** [December 3, 2020, 12:39am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922 "2020-12-03T00:39:47Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 13\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![spannerspinner](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/spannerspinner/32/8900_2.png) [@spannerspinner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/spannerspinner)\ **Post date:** [December 3, 2020, 12:39am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/1 "2020-12-03T00:39:47Z")
We’re getting ready to sell my wife’s '07 Mazda 3 and of course it has recently (over 2-3 months) developed a fairly loud front-end clunking/knocking noise, which sounds like its closer to the drivers side. It seems to be related to the suspension, as well as the steering as I can replicate by turning steering wheel quickly back and forth. I’ve checked the control arm and bushings and they’re fine. Tie-rods seem alright. Ive tapped on everything I can see or reach and dont see anything loose or broken. I changed the rear engine mount as it seemed to have play and they frequently go in these cars, but the clunking/knocking persists. Any tips or suggestions would appreciated. Thanks, Mike ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [December 3, 2020, 1:22am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/2 "2020-12-03T01:22:30Z")
Check for worn sway bar bushings. ![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/0/f/0ff4298fd1bfe50b70f381a15f7c9a82aef1a98c.jpeg) Tester ---
**Author:** ![tcmichnorth](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tcmichnorth/32/25126_2.png) [@tcmichnorth](https://community.cartalk.com/u/tcmichnorth)\ **Post date:** [December 3, 2020, 1:32am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/3 "2020-12-03T01:32:45Z")
How did you check the tie rod ends and ball joints? ---
**Author:** ![spannerspinner](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/spannerspinner/32/8900_2.png) [@spannerspinner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/spannerspinner)\ **Post date:** [December 3, 2020, 1:45am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/4 "2020-12-03T01:45:34Z")
I recently changed the drivers control arm so the bushings are new. I took the wheels off and checked them again anyway for loose bolts etc. ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [December 3, 2020, 2:31am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/5 "2020-12-03T02:31:19Z")
Stabilizer bar links maybe. They would clunk under those conditions. ---
**Author:** ![spannerspinner](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/spannerspinner/32/8900_2.png) [@spannerspinner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/spannerspinner)\ **Post date:** [December 3, 2020, 4:47am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/6 "2020-12-03T04:47:53Z")
Yeah you might be on the right track. I replaced the links last year but didnt do the bushings, because it requires dropping the front subframe. Hopefully it’s not too much of a hassle to do without a lift. ---
**Author:** ![spannerspinner](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/spannerspinner/32/8900_2.png) [@spannerspinner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/spannerspinner)\ **Post date:** [December 3, 2020, 4:51am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/7 "2020-12-03T04:51:40Z")
Yeah I think it is the sway bar bushings. I replaced the links last year but didnt do the bushings, because it requires dropping the front subframe. Hopefully it’s not too much of a hassle to do without a lift. So much work to replace such a simple part. ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [December 3, 2020, 2:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/8 "2020-12-03T14:32:59Z")
You don’t need to answer us individually, we all can see every post even those directed at a specific forum member. ---
**Author:** ![shanonia](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/9de053/32.png) [@shanonia](https://community.cartalk.com/u/shanonia)\ **Post date:** [December 4, 2020, 3:49pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/10 "2020-12-04T15:49:12Z")
Sway bar rattle is worse in cold weather on my minivan. It’s worse in the first few blocks of driving on poor pavement. It is not dangerous. I have replaced the bushings every few years on that car. On my 1999 Honda I’ve never had the problem, and the bushings are 21 years old. ---
**Author:** ![spannerspinner](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/spannerspinner/32/8900_2.png) [@spannerspinner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/spannerspinner)\ **Post date:** [December 5, 2020, 4:55am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/11 "2020-12-05T04:55:03Z")
Yeah well it turns out the sway bar bushings on this 13 year old Mazda3 were also fine. Luckily I didnt have to drop the undercarriage, was able to reach 3 of the 4 bolts with 32 inches of extensions. Recently replaced control arm w/ bushings, new rear engine mount, new sway bar bushings, …and it’s still clunking. Open to any and all suggestions… ---
**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\ **Post date:** [December 5, 2020, 5:54am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/12 "2020-12-05T05:54:49Z")
Strut mounts? ---
**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\ **Post date:** [December 5, 2020, 1:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/13 "2020-12-05T13:50:05Z")
Too bad strut mounts require strut tear down. Don’t buy cheap struts. eBay-Chinese strut=poor ride. ---
**Author:** ![spannerspinner](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/spannerspinner/32/8900_2.png) [@spannerspinner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/spannerspinner)\ **Post date:** [December 5, 2020, 4:42pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/07-mazda-3-front-end-clunk-not-control-arm/172922/14 "2020-12-05T16:42:35Z")
It’s not the strut mounts. Struts/Coilovers are easy to swoap out anyway, and yes more times than not you get what you pay for. -Ebay for car parts??