It's rust that will poke through at some pint and make your car worth nothing in trade in....It's there.
Sure - some point…But when? The vehicle is 9 years old and 260k miles. Sure it’ll rust to the point of not being able to drive it - eventually. But I GUARANTEE you it’ll be YEARS down the road. So I’ll concentrate on keeping it running since the rust is NOT an issue. Funny how you think rust is such an issue when we probably live less then 50 miles apart.
I am such a big advocate of rust prevention because of crashes that I had to investigate. Some of these cars folded up like accordions because their frames and sub frame members had rusted. What was not obvious on the out side, became apparent after the crash when their frames opened up. People don’t get that crash tests are done on new cars that have not experienced corrosion. If you live in NH, where my daughter lives, not me, corrosion is still a problem. Framed vehicles like older Toyotas are susceptible to frame rust from the inside and need attention to remain safe in a crash. So, just rusting to the point of not being able to drive it, is not the issue. Surviving a crash is and that’s why I am fastidious about rust. Rust can defeat much the cars integrity it had designed in. Would you buy a car that performed poorly in ALL the crash tests? I wouldn’t.
@auto-owner, if you want to be frugal with oil changes, use the Honda oil life monitor to tell you when to change your oil. Do it after it turns to 20% oil life remaining. Don’t play with the oil viscosity until it is out of warranty. If you do both of these, you will keep your warranty intact and save money in a prudent way. I’ve used OLMs to determine my oil changes for over 10 years and have had no ill effects.
I NEVER EVER said rust wasn’t a problem. What I’m saying is that the rust won’t be a problem until well after I sell it.
You got on the rust to turn your argument away from the real discussion on the extended oil change intervals. Fine. Believe what you want. All I’ve said is you haven’t shown me any PROOF that the 10k oil change interval is valid. When you have PROOF…get back to me.
Actually, dag, that’s probably the weakest of the three links you mentioned to me. It’s pretty much cribbed from carecycle.gov’s site…and they have an obvious interest in minimizing WMO, given that their “no burn” edict has left them with a surplus.////
At least, you have to admit extended intervals eat into a safety margin, if there is one. Honda says the extended interval is okay–IF synthetic is used. GM says okay–IF the oil’s DEXOS. Once a PCV gets plugged, or a slight blowby devolps: can the oil make up the difference? Dunno, but I’d rather not find out first hand!////
With 4,000 mile intervals on my 300-powered F150, I know I can run ANY API oil and have adequate protection with a healthy cushion for unexpected problems. I agree about the rust; but if you blanch at burning WMO, you really don’t want to hear my rustproofing solution…
If you read all my posts, extended intervals are contingent upon using synthetics. As far as proof is concerned, any person is welcome to do their own motor oil analysis and there are tons of references in forums galor. Otherwise, you can always say, govt. tests are flawed, commercial tests are flawed, scientific tests are flawed as oils are commercial products and everyone has their own self interest and no reference I use will satisfy you. And now, Toyota, Honda and all car manufacturers are flawed ? But, you get nothing but personal opinions, not backed up by oil testing for intervals shorter then 7500k for synthetic oil. The manufacturers are the fundamental proof. I understand the disagreement for hard service, but for normal oil changes ? Dealers could make lots of extra money encouraging shorter ones…and they don’t !
The bottom line, with few exceptions, most of us tout referring to the owners manual for everything else but some how, they “don’t know what they are talking about with oil changes.” It would be one thing if it were Fiat, but Toyota and Honda traditionally make motors that last and last and they would do nothing to jeopardize this position. Extended oil changes with mineral oils can be a compromize, so please keep that in mind…not mineral oil but with synthetics of 7500 and more, recomended. You guys can stay with your fetish. (objects of unreasonable, excessive attention) That’s fine. The proof is out there and it means more for you to google and use reference you trust ( no one I guess) then it is for me then you say it’s flawed. it’s your money…pee it away with my blessing. To people with fetishes and addictions, there is no proof…while the world keeps moving in the other direction.
Btw, @meanjoe75fan
My rust proofing solution has been sanctioned by all the body repair businesses in my area I have had business with (5) whose technicians do it to their own cars. I go to them with every new purchase for for advice on panel removal and hole drilling access advice with EVERY new or used car. It’s very difficult to legally use the preferred common motor oil in your car because the polution is application dependent for rust control and should be done privately. But there is linseed oil and completly bio degradable G (green) oil that work to help prevent rust in body seems where 99% of body rust starts. All are completly safe to use. Frame and component rust is easily handled by same from inside and grease application from without with a foam brush.
Again, there are biodegradable versions. I have stocked up on these oils my self and will continue to use that method. In the last 30 years, I have never had a rust through or even spot of bubble in any car I have owned including Corollas that were 20 years old. I have saved thousands of dollars come trade in and personal sales. The friend who showed me this has nearly every car he has ever owned including original Beetles he drove for 15 years to work in the rust belt. These cars are all stored in garages (over 30 of them ) in near perfect condition. I use a dedicated garden sprayer for convenience, sometimes right next to my well head i am so assured of the safety of this method. He has it down to such a science, he uses an oil can on some cars and maybe, 10 minutes per car, every three to 5 years. It doesn’t bother the average guy to have a motor he “overchanged the oil” that purrs like a kitten in a car that can’t pass inspection with rust holes. The salvage yards are happy to remove good motors from rusted hulks and re sell them.
@meanjoe75fan
"…and, if I recall, GM was forced to recall and adjust its OLM when balance shaft chains were failing inside warranty. (That’s chilling–GM was hunky-dory with a reduced life, just not warrany issues.) "
So, you are an advocate of impugning an entire company and their established technology over an issue that affected only a small fraction of the engines in use since the 1980s?
GM to reprogram some oil-life monitors
Worn chains in four-cylinder engines prompts service campaign
My 2012 Camry says use only 0W20 except in an emergency when you can use 5W20 and change back to 0W20 at Half the normal interval.
@TT, no, it just shows that the current MO is to “extend, then titrate downward as necessary.” Also goes to show just how bad wear has to be to concern OEM.///Also, far from the only example: Toyota sludging, M-B got sued…I’m sure there’s more…
“M-B got sued…”
I was at the dealership at the time
When Benz initially came out with 10K service intervals, they didn’t require synthetic oil
After that fiasco, they absolutely required the use of synthetic oil
The problem was in 1998 and some 1999 models
Since then, it’s been fine, except for those guys that insist on going 10K on conventional oil, in spite of the requirement to use synthetic oil, which they choose to ignore. Those engines still get sludged up. But it’s the customer’s fault, because the word is out on the street.
You have a new car why not just have the dealer change the oil so there will not be a question about service if you should need warranty service. The last 3 new cars we bought either had free oil changes or at least decent prices and I did not have to dispose of used oil. Besides while they are changing the oil I get free coffee and donuts.
You have a new car why not have the dealer change the oil and they will have records on hand if you have a warranty problem. The last 3 new cars we bought had free oil changes or at least decent prices and I did not have to dispose of the old oil. Besides while they change the oil I get free coffee and donuts.