Mike, I almost said that but decided against it. The OP may not find that uncomplicated.
@auto-owner, the writing on the oil cap is just a general guideline. What does the owner’s manual say?
If you really think about this, “0” -anything oils probably flow a LITTLE better than 5W-anything oils when the car is started in extremely cold weather…But if you lived in Florida or the Southwest, 5w-20 oil changed at reasonable intervals would probably do just fine…But to keep things simple, they just say use 0-20 grade oil and that’s that…One size fits all…They don’t care how much it costs…
Whitey
…the writing on the oil cap is just a general guideline. What does the owner’s manual say?
The manual states: Recommended Engine Oil
*Genuine Honda Motor Oil
*Premium-grade 0-20 detergent oil with an API Certification Seal on the
container.
Interestingly, further down the page it says:
You may also use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API Certification Seal and is the specified viscosity grade.
I guess the main point of my original post was that I suspect synthetic oil is mostly just an overpriced gimmick.
Nope, it has higher temperature handling capability and load. It’s no gimmick. And the Honda uses oil as part of the VTEC actuation system.
You want to cheap out, fine, why’d you ask?
“But to keep things simple, they just say use 0-20 grade oil and that’s that…One size fits all…They don’t care how much it costs…”
Of course they don’t care how much it costs. Why would anyone care how much it costs? I can’t for the life of me see what difference the cost of 0W20 vs. 5W20 vs. 5W30 could possibly make to anyone? You go buy a $20,000+ car and quibble about pennies on an oil change?
True, I don’t walk around WalMart or any auto parts store checking out the weekly sale on oil, but I can tell you that the price difference I pay for bottled oil is less than $1/qt for 0W20 vs. 5W30.
Assuming you do your own oil changes every 5000 miles of 3 times per year, and assuming your car holds 6 quarts of oil, you will save a grand total of $18 per year using 5W30 and possibly voiding your engine warranty and causing premature wear and/or damage. How does this make sense?
Show me a yearly budget in which $18 is a factor to consider and I’ll show you someone better off with a bus pass.
@auto-owner, Synthetic is definitely NOT a gimmick. However, if your car does not need synthetic, you will probably not gain much advantage using it. Similar to using premium fuel if your car calls for regular. Synthetic oils tend to hold their lubricating properties better in higher stress applications, especially turbo cars. Dino oils can coke up a turbo bearing feed line due to the high temperatures of the turbo, resulting in early failure. Synthetics do a much better job of resisting the high heat and not coking. Also, in engines prone to sludging, synthetics don’t sludge as easily. Some performance motors call for nothing but a high quality synthetic to prevent oil stress failures.
But in engines that are not any of the above, synthetic is a pricey option with little benefit. Some believe they can extend oil changes while running synthetic, but personally, I don’t trust that belief. The oil will still collect combustion by-products, wear, and dirt at the same rate, and I still want that crap out of the crankcase at regular intervals. The interesting thing about that quote you provided, however, is that I have not ever seen a 0W oil that was not synthetic.
…but does the owner’s manual indicate 5W-20 oil is an acceptable viscosity to use? My Honda owner’s manual indicates I can use 10W-30 oil, but 5W-30 is recommended. If 0W-20 is the only viscosity listed in your owner’s manual, that is the one you should use. If the manual indicates 5W-20 is acceptable, that makes it okay.
Far as the OP has said, it specifies 0W20. But that’s too expensive…
IT’s not more expensive to use synthetic. And it’s not a " pricey option with little benefit" .
It can be less expensive if he extends the oil change intervals. The oil may be twice as expensive( which I may doubt), but the filter is the same and the labor as well if he has it done or does it himself. Now the cost is but a third or so different. If he increases the interval length by 50% to 7500 which I do (manufacturer says 10k which is better price wise) it’s a wash and should cost about the same. I get a little rebate of a few bucks on the synthetic and I ACTUALLY PAY LESS per mile. The idea behind using expensive synthetics is not to increase oil change costs, but to decrease them or keep them the same while reducing pollution. It seems like a no brainier. But, if you’re one of these guys who just has to change the oil every 2500, you can use peanut oil and it won’t matter. 
Your motor should last LONGER even with 30% extended oil change intervals due to the start up advantages of synthetic where much of the wear is. The more “north” you live, the bigger the advantage. Obviously, if your motor does require it, it’s an even bigger advantage. But if I don’t extend the intervals and use synthetic, I am really dumber then I pretend to be.
@dagosa: this is the second time this thread you dragged out the “pollution” canard, and I’ll bite–what pollution?///Yes, IF you dump the oil down the drain…that’s bad, but the solution to dumping oil down the drain is NOT to change less often–it’s to quit pouring the damn oil down the drain! (I thought that was self-explanitory.)////Properly handled, WMO is either recycled into new oil, or burned as fuel, reducing our need for heavier fuels on a one-to-one basis.//// So, again: with proper disposal, WHAT pollution are you referring to??
So you don’t believe that increasing oil change intervals has a positive effect on pollution levels and I do.
That’s ok, we will never agree on that. Regardless, my main argument is ; it’s more, not less economical or at the least, close to a wash, and better for your car extending interval lengths and using synthetic then shorter intervals with non synthetic oils. Am reading, it’s more expensive for OP and am addressing that particular thought.
Btw, I would be happy to read any links from studies or opinions you have found that say more frequent oil change intervals using non synthetic oils are better or have no negative effect on the environment and it’s more cost effective…either rational.
Those who refer to recent manufacturers recommendations are absolutely correct as it does reduce costs for the owner by using synthetic oils and extending oil change intervals.
And has anyone done a study on the adverse effect of engines that have extended oil change intervals? OK has mentioned several times he’s seen engines full of sludge that are using the manufacturer extended oil change intervals. If engines are failing prematurely…then I’d think that would have a huge impact on our environment.
As of yet - I’m not convinced extended oil change intervals (even with synthetic) is good. I spend too much money on a vehicle…and I keep them too long (over 300k miles) for me to be experimenting on long oil change intervals.
Those who refer to recent manufacturers recommendations are absolutely correct as it does reduce costs for the owner by using synthetic oils and extending oil change intervals.
Right up to the point where you have to replace the engine.
The manual states: Recommended Engine Oil *Genuine Honda Motor Oil *Premium-grade 0-20 detergent oil with an API Certification Seal on the container.Interestingly, further down the page it says:
You may also use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API Certification Seal and is the specified viscosity grade.
I guess the main point of my original post was that I suspect synthetic oil is mostly just an overpriced gimmick.
Re-Read the statement you just posted…
It says you may use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API certification Seal AND IS THE SPECIFIED VISCOSITY GRATE. - AKA 0w-20.
All that statement is saying - is to use the Motor oil from Honda…OR…get equivalent oil from you local auto parts store.
Right up to the point where you have to replace the engines ? You have to be making this stuff up. Right ?
So where are we ? Oil changes NOT according to manufacturer recommendations. Gee, we all get agree ment to follow manuals when if it suits our beliefs, but let it contradict our oil change fetish, and we fall back to the early days when cars motors broke down with regularity at 75k often with the vaunted 2500 mile oil change.
It’s a new world out there. Car motors go easily over 200 k with 5k oil changes on non synthetics ( some of mine had years ago) and there is nothing that does not show synthetics can’t extend them to 7500 or 10k on many motors designed for them. Manufacturers allow for lower intervals with excessive idling or trailer pulling or off roading or cold weather short trips if that’s the norm. But all of us do well with the long schedule with synthetics. A recent post where a gentleman lost his motor well before warranty because of a motor fault by Ford has nothing to do with oil changes but some of us will catalog that into our psychic just to keep our fetish alive. It just seems odd that our state has used 10k synthetic oil change intervals with great success on state vehicles whose motors showed little or no ill effects with related break downs. This on high mileage police cruisers, plow trucks, ambulances etc, for the past 25 years… and motors improved. Our 4Runner gets the 5k change non synthetic because Toyota hasn’t certified that motor yet for extended intervals. But, the newer one certainy won’t get that treatment. And, I will pay less per mile using the synthetic for a longer interval.
Yes, synthetics are an overpriced gimmick…if you change the oil every 3k or even 5k miles in normal use in motors designed for them
Oil viscosity is a Wizard of Oz issue but there are several who advertise to be the actual Wizard. And the actual difference in 0-20 and 5-20 oil is virtually non existant.
http://www.carbibles.com/viscosity.html
So the only difference in 0-20 and 5-20 is a lowered pour point.
I can only tell you that when I went to synthetic with 0 weight in both my tractor and hand starting generator which each previously used 5w-30, both turned over demonstratively easier in cold weather. That has to make a difference in wear over time…is it because one is a synthetic and one is not, or is it that very slight difference ? You tell me.
So where are we ? Oil changes NOT according to manufacturer recommendations.
I’m not convinced that the extended oil change intervals are valid yet. Too new to tell. After 10-15 years of people doing it and there aren’t any increases in engine failures then I’ll start believing it. Took me a while to stop changing at 3k miles.
If you want to take that chance…GREAT…I know for a FACT that the 5k oil will keep my engines running for 300k miles. I’ve done it on several vehicles. You can’t tell me you know for a FACT that the 10k oil change intervals will do the same. I’m not about to experiment with $30k of my money. If you want to - go ahead.
You have done the 5k oil changes, on the same vehicle I do. Toyota has yet to certify that motor for greater intervals. The Venza (m577 apc look alike from Aliens 2) we bought will get the 7500 mile treatment at first, ( it’s used and I don’t trust previous owners). Then after another change, it will go to once a year or 10k as recommended. I will save money and the motor will out live it’s life with me, I have no doubt. Have had 10 Toyota built cars and never a motor or transmission problem. I put my focus on rust control which has saved me the real big money, and leave the too frequent oil change worries to others.
I will save money and the motor will out live it's life with me, I have no doubt.
I’m glad you think it will. I’m NOT convinced yet. Maybe some day I will be.
Oil changes are cheap. Engine aren’t.