I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra that has been chugging for a few months now. The problem is intermittent and only happens about once or twice a week when driving, but when it starts to chug (feels like it is running out of gas, jerky, will not accelerate) it is unsafe to drive on the freeway. I have t…

Lets see - “the” knock sensor code? No such thing. P0324 Knock Control System Error P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank I or Single Sensor) P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank I or Single Sensor) P0328…

The faulty knock sensor will not cause the Check Engine light to come on nor will it cause the driveability symptoms you describe. The cost for knock sensor replacement is that high because it involves removing the upper and lower intake manifolds for access. But replacing it will almost certainly n…

Here’s a little more information— sorry I am trying to learn more about cars- PO328 code was coming up- the mechanic wrote on my estimate that “nox sensor shorted inside sending high voltage to computer 100% of driving time” he told me that he believes that this is causing the speed sensor code to c…

Any opinions or advice given here amount to “armchair quarterbacking” since we don’t have access to the car. But I can say that the scenario for a shorted knock sensor (a common failure on Nissan V-6 engines) to cause a fault code P0500 for a Vehicle Speed Sensor would involve a rodent eating wire i…

This mechanic I just took it to drove my car around for over 20 miles and a full tank of gas after a week and all he came up with is the knock sensor. If it were you…what would your next step be. I’ve taken it to over 5 different mechanics which includes 2 nissan dealerships only to have them thro…

I’m in agreement that the knock sensor is not causing this problem. Maybe there’s an intermittent fault with the fuel pump and that is certainly not uncommon. The perception is often that a fuel pump will quit and stay dead and that’s not always the case. Sometimes they get balky and act up followe…

It’s very frustrating, isn’t it? I tell customers that I’m as patient as they are. If I need to keep your car for a week, I will. We’ll use it (with your ok, of course) as a shop vehicle, using it to drive to the bank, pick up lunch or parts, run shop errands, etc. Doing that, it should be possible…

I disagree with the tech’s thinking about the knock sensor high input code. A shorted sensor will not cause a high voltage reading to be seen by the ECU. If anything, the reading will be near zero volts due to the short on the sensor line. I also agree with the others that the knock sensor code won’…

One possibility that I like except for the expense is to try changing the knock sensor. There was also a tapping noise from a loose lifter that triggered the knock detection (on a Toyota years ago) which then caused the computer to retard the ignition timing. That did affect performance in a bad way…

To replace a knock sensor or not?

Maintenance/Repairs

oblivion May 28, 2012, 9:36am 11

You should know the actual code it’s throwing for the knock sensor. Also, a decent scan tool should be able to log whether any ‘knock events’ are recorded, to further verify whether the sensor is bad. But I agree with Cougar: a bad TPS could cause this. Unfortunately there’s a lot of other things that could cause this too.

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To replace a knock sensor or not?

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