Honda odyssey - shaking with check engine and VSA on

You’ve got to be able to do a lot better with the background info on the vehicle and the description of the problem. On the latter, perhaps your wife should just write up exactly what happened. All we have right now is that these lights came on and the car vibrated and had trouble accelerating. Ok - well, what was she doing when this happened? It all started right when the car was turned on? While she was sitting at a stop sign? Doing 70mph on an interstate? It vibrates while sitting at idle? Or only when…? The car sounds like…? Feels like…?

This this is also 7 years & 120K miles along in life, and you didn’t ever say if it ever got a new set of spark plugs or fuel filter, etc. A fairly detailed idea of maintenance history would be good.

Some shops will have computer scanners that will pull history codes from the computer, though I don’t know how long codes are stored. Auto parts stores will read them for free, but most use equipment that will only pull current codes with the engine light on.

Your Honda is going into “limp” mode and has significant issues. 120K miles on the original plugs means you have to a lot of stuff to deal with. The Odyssey tends to have transmission problems as they age. Motor mounts also are weak on this car. So, if you drive it with the “shaking” you could damage the motor mounts and have more problems as a result. Get new plugs, new filters, and have the "codes’ read for more direction on what the car needs.

Thanks guys. Got the error code from. It is p-2647. As pe the technicial in the pep boys who read the code, this is a honda software issue related to the Technical Service Bulltein #05-019 (from Honda). Is this valid? Any suggestions?

I know what that is but you probably will not like it… Its the VTEC oil pressue switch… Basically the high RPM cams are staying engaged at low RPM… The switch that activates them are getting stuck… Have you had the oil changed recently?? Have you checked the level, becasue low oil can cause the same issue.

The switch itself is not much money, but the labor to put it in can be. Or it can be the whole soilinoid assembly but that is rare

Assuming I am keeping the car, I have to get a timing belt change done anyway. Will that help reduce the labor - or is it completely a different area. Sorry, am mechanically challanged here :frowning:

Completely different, I don’t think the sensor is that bad. It’s the assembly that really costs. But it’s less then a new van. With that said, the others are right. If your trans is original and your motor mounts are original, you may very well look at spending zero and trading the van in. You can easily be looking at 5-6,000 worth of repairs if all these things go bad.

At least have the motor mounts checked prior to doing the timing belt.

Guess what - it turned out to be that i was running out of engine oil. looks like i skipped few oil changes :-(. Weired part is that low oil indicator never went off.

I put in some oil in the engine, and haven’t seen the problem yet in the past 3 weeks.

Thanks all for help

Are you now checking your fluids (NOT just your oil) regularly?

In addition, pull out the recommended maintenance schedule that came with your owner’s manual and bring the car in ASAP to get all the neglected maintenance caught up. At this point you’ve definitely caused premature negine wear, probably begaun the process of sludgingg up the engine, and severely reduced your engine’s life. You’ll not get the years of trouble-free service that most of us aspire to. And your engine will probably burn oil now, all the more reason to start checking it regularly. Honestly, I’d suggest an oil change every thousand miles for the next few thousand to clear out the sludge. Perhaps even an engine flush, which is something i RARELY recommend.

Your poor motor! I feel its pain!

The low oil indicator light never came on because Honda doesn’t have this feature. Once you run out of oil, the low (no) oil PRESSURE warning would come on. This would probably be a flashing check engine light or flashing oil light.

I don’t know why all manufacturers don’t have low oil indicators, my 89 Mercedes tells me when the oil level drops below normal.

You are very lucky your NEGLECT didn’t completely ruin the whole engine. What were you thinking? Save $20, but risk $10,000?

Never rely on idiot lights to tell you when your car needs oil/water/etc. Usually by the time these lights come on you’ve already caused damage. Open the hood once a week and visually check these things and keep on top of oil changes, etc and your car will last you many years/miles. As has already been mentioned you may have already cause irreversible damage to the engine. One of my cars is 24 years old and has over 518K miles on it and still a good daily driver. I don’t know how long it’s been since the timing belt was last changed if ever, but if you’re not keeping up with oil changes I’d wager a bet that the timing belt is overdue. If your engine is an interference type engine and the timing belt breaks or shears teeth off you’re probably going to be looking at several thousand dollars worth of engine repairs or a new engine.

This may be one of those vehicles that run another 50-100k with more neglect. There are folks & vehicles who run in this mode.

I had the same problem. VSA light, check engine light, and loss of power. It turned out my odyssey was very low on oil.

We were coming back from a long drive and suddenly this engine light came on and car started vibrating. Next day took it to mechanic and they ran the codes and checked everything. Turned out the spark plug was burnt in the third engine.

Your vehicle has 3 engines ?

That was one of the lesser-known options available on older Odysseys.
That way, if your primary engine falls out due to motor mount failure, you have a couple of reserve engines to rely on.
Those Honda engineers think of everything!
:wink:

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Honda Odyssey 2006 EX-L 142000 miles on it. Vibrates violently at low speeds (0-30 mph) Check engine and VSA and exclamation mark in red triangle comes on. Van hesitant to accelerate and hessing sound.
codes seen are P0AB6, P2647,P2227

Please advice what do here.

Honda dealership says to VTECH Oil Pressure Switch replace.

Recently had the oil change done and inspected it to be normal level.

Good Grief , how many people are going to be on this 5 year old thread. I still don’t understand why they can’t be closed after a certain time.

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That is one SERIOUS weakness of this website . . . people do a symptom search, or what have you, and the ANCIENT thread is resurrected. And there’s the inevitable confusion, because some people are responding the original OP from several years ago, while others are responding to the new guy

I agree with Volvo . . . after a certain time, an inactive discussion should just stay dead. I think the only exception should be if the OP from several years ago were the one to revive it, because he had an update

+1

However, what I can’t quite figure out is why newbies to this site think that they have to glom onto old threads with a frequently tenuous relation to their specific problem. If the link for “post a new thread/question” isn’t prominent enough, then I think that the webmasters have to make it more prominent.

If newbies think that everything revolves around old threads, then how do they think that new threads are created?
:confused:

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I don’t see this as being much of a problem myself. It’s pretty easy to ignore the older portions of the thread and focus only on the new content. Perhaps a more clear indication of the portions of the thread that are more than a year old would be helpful, different color, etc. The older content however should definitely remain, as it provides helpful ideas for folks looking for car-repair help here.

Towards solving @korares problem, the VSA dash warning light isn’t the problem, that’s just to tell you the engine is not running correctly, and you already know that. If the variable valve timing function (vtech) is not working properly, these symptoms could be expected. If your shop diagnosis says the vtech pressure switch is the problem, that’s probably the best next step. It may well solve the problem completely.

fyi, Variable valve timing means when the intake and exhaust valves open and close is changed depending upon engine rpm and engine load. Older vehicles the valves always open and close at the same time. Modulating the opening and closing time, that’s done in newer cars to improve engine performance and mpg. The downside is, if that function fails, it will make the engine run poorly, or not at all.