I agree. This sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system. You’d think, however, that a Nissan dealer would be able to figure this out and correctly bleed the air from the system.
Have you checked the coolant level in the radiator? If not, you need to do so right away. When the engine is COLD, the radiator should be completely full.
kizwiki - thermostat has been replaced twice at this point. I could believe one bad thermostat but 2 with different mechanics installing them. Possible but not likely.
circuitsmith - how long would i have to let engine cool? Just trying to think of where i could go near me with a incline that wouldn’t have to sit for hours unattended.
Checked the radiator this morning, not full, added antifreeze, service engine light went off. Also regarding head gasket, I have checked oil and tailpipe (on advice from others) and oil is clean (no foam or milky color) and no stickiness on tailpipe to indicate a leak anywhere.
One thing you could try is to disconnect the top heater core hose, and fill the heater core. Then, using the highest point you have on the cooling system, loosen the hose clamp, and start it (the motor). Keep your eye on the loosened clamp, and the area around it for antifreeze to start bleeding through. Once the air has escaped, tighten the clamp.
I had a 3-series BMW that had the water jacket through the intake, and the hose leaving the intake had to be loosened to get the air all out. It was a PITA, but it worked. had a Renault 5 that was similar, but it had a tiny stopcock buried back there I had to loosen. Took me hours to find it.
Well, if the trouble is due to a faulty headgasket the trouble was most likely there before the radiator hose was replaced. Perhaps the hose had a leak and replacing the hose changed things with the pressure in the coolant system and now these things are happening due to that. I hope I am wrong for the OPs sake but the symtoms of trouble mentioned make me think they still have a problem whether they come back with a reply or not.
One idea to consider is that it might be a bad connection on the temp sensor that links to the temp display inside the car. Replacing the radiator hose could have accidentally pulled that wire loose. Easy to check, so worth a try. My first guess is like what the others say, the coolant is low or there’s an air pocket somewhere. Be sure to run the heater for a while when you are driving here and there, something this can help bleed air pockets. You need to find out what the problem with due speed though, as until it is fixed, this problem could potentially damage the engine. Good luck.
I was going to start my own thread until I came across this one. I’m having the same issue with my 2005 Civic. I took it down to the same shop who did my 100,000-mile maintenance four months earlier and he said it was an air pocket and did the burping thing. However, it’s still doing it. I have checked the oil per a friend’s suggestion for the milky/frothy and that isn’t there (will check later today for the sticky residue on the tail pipe). The OTHER thing going on with this situation is my engine light now stays on steadily for the last few days as well as when I go to start my car after it’s been sitting (mornings, leaving work parking lot, etc.) it will be chuggy/sluggish and rattle-y making me have to rev the engine a few times for it to settle down before I can even go anywhere. Not sure if these two would be related but these “chuggy starts” began occurring a short while after this temp issue. It will also seem a bit sluggish when accelerating from a stop if that helps.
Luckily it wasn’t…but it WAS P0134…oxygen sensor… which is actually what I was thinking it was as, from what I’ve been reading, that will cause my temp issues…correct?
The one thing that bums me out is they also found P0300 which means they didn’t do something right with my spark plugs as they should not be misfiring when I just had them changed four months ago. Or, would this be another symptom of above?
Just an update: after taking my car to my local garage, they decided to reset the check engine light to see if it comes back on with the same code to be sure it IS the O2 sensor before making the repair. I honestly have never heard of a shop doing something like this before as it seems most are desperate to wrench away and throw me a bill. Is it a legit form of practice? I wasn’t charged or anything for this so the only thing lost is simply the time of my car hanging out at the shop and not really having anything done to it.
Any shop that double checks things in order to verify things and possibly save you needless repair costs sounds legit to me and is a shop you should use when needed.