Condensation in my headlight

How do I get the condensation out of my headlight? It’s only in the left side light. I replaced the bulbs 3 months ago - it did not stop the water.

remove the headlight, and carefully drill a hole in the bottom of the housing. That’ll allow moisture to escape without introducing more into the light.

GM would allow us to replace the entire headlight assembly if after 20 min of having the lights on the condensation still existed. I realise this type of policy does not do you all that much good, just an example of how this is handled under warranty.

Marilyn, What Model-Year Is This Highlander ? I Don’t Know How Many Technical Service Bulletins I’ve Seen From Different Manufacturers That Say It’s Normal.

Give the model-year and I’ll try and check.

I wouldn’t drill into it. You can try temporarily removing the moisture by removing the bulbs and ltting th sun dry the capsule or use a hair drier on the lens, but be careful not to get it so hot that it melts the plastic.

A permanent fix is probably a new headlight capsule. Oldschool has outlined GM’s approach to this issue while a vehicle is under warranty. Depending on the model-year, sometimes a salvage yard unit makes sense and you can look for one with no evidence of condensation.

Do you need the lens to be totally clear to pass an inspection where you live ? We have no inspections of any kind where I live and I’d try one of the above suggestions when it bothered me enough.

CSA

Reason #846 why we should go back to sealed beam headlamps.

I have a small hole in the lens of the right (passenger side) headlight and it was full of about 3/4" of water, had sea monkeys living in it. A replacement lens is $200+ so I just let it dry out. I live in Arizona so we get very little rain. When the pond finally dried up and the sea monkeys were all petrified, I put a small piece of clear tape over the hole and have had no problems at all. That was three years ago.

Today I say a Honda Gold Wing Motorcycle with a clear plastic cover over the headlight to protect from stone chips. I’m going to find one that will fit (or cut to fit) over my Boxy Black Beauty’s headlights to prevent it from happening again.

Yes, removing the bulb and letting the sun shine on the lens for a few hours, often fixes this problem.

I have had very good luck drilling 2 holes in the rear plastic housing. One hole is drilled at the lowest possible point for drainage and the second hole at the highest possible point to allow vapor to escape when the bulb is on and hot. Although it is too difficult to confirm it appears to me that moisture is drawn in at poor sealing of the mating surface of the lens and rear housing due to the effects of drafting. The price of some headlight assemblies is more than I paid for the first car I owned.

Heat will pull moisture into the housings no matter if they’re sealed or not. This usually occurs after the lamps are shut off on humid evenings.

Remove any plug that may exist, drill a small hole, or whatever in the bottom of the housings and this should cure it.

Both of my Lincoln Marks were horrible about this. After removing the 1/4" plug in the bottom of each housing I routed small air lines from each housing to the air cleaner. There has been zero drops of water ever since and the main reason for the air line was to remove heat when the lamps were on rather than condensation removal. The lamps now run cool to the touch so ergo, no moisture attraction.

I second Mr. Meehan wholeheartedly although it will never happen. Why replace a plastic stylish lamp with something that is cheap, reliable, and downright effective.

OK4450, I Like Your “Air Cooled Headlights”. Would This Be The “MacGyver” Or “Rube Goldberg” Headlight Modification ? Just Joking.

I can picture a mechanic scratching his head and puzzling over the tubing connecting headlights and air cleaner.

Maybe one of the manufacturers with severe condensation problems would be interested in your invention.

:wink:

CSA