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the desiccant material attracts moisture not oil.
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I never said mineral oil mixes with R134a… It settles on top of the mineral oil and travels thru the system WITH THE 134a. Do what we did and put the two oils in a jar and shake them up and watch them separate.
3)He doesn’t have to use an in-line flux capacitor oil delivery system, just put the end of the lines from the gages or recovery unit into a jar of ester oil and meter it in the system. Do the low side first. Put the system on vaccuum, shut the valve off on the low side, unscrew the line from the recovery unit and put in a jar of 2 or 3 ounces of oil then open the low side and allow the oil to drain into the system. At this point it can pull air in since there willl be a 30 or 45 minute time limit for vaccuuming. After vaccuuming allow it to sit for at least 5 minutes… the gauges shouldn’t move. After checking the gauges to see that they haven’t moved, shut off the high side valve and then remove the end of the hose from the recovery unit and place it in a jar of oil… open the valve and allow the oil to fill the hose but stop it from letting any air in. Attach the hose back to the recovery unit and charge the high side with 134a pushing the oil into the system. check for leaks… Allow the equalization, crank the motor home, look at the gauges for correct pressures.
Like I said and someone else suggested, you might would like a regular shop do the conversion. If there was a leak before the conversion, you as an independant don’t have a way of recovering it, repairing the leak and recharging. A small shop like ours charges $100.00 for cars and trucks conversions. A little more for larger vehicles. Shop around. Usually there will be a 4 degree temperature loss from R-12 to 134a.
Good luck.