Engine keeps running after ignition key is out

Yesterday after I turned off my car I got out and saw that the car was still running. This lasted a minute or so that seemed like an hour or so. I got back in the car, turned the key to start it again, and then turned it off and it stayed off. What could cause that in a 1997 honda accord ex. thanks

Bad ignition switch.

Bad ignition switches have been known to cause fires, so get this taken care of quickly.

Yes, ignition SWITCH.
In the interim, when you notice the car still running, try just wiggling the key to see if it moves the switch enough to shut off.
Plan now to replace the switch.

Most customers in the shop do not realize that the KEY CYLINDER is not the ignition SWITCH.
( Many of them come to my counter asking for a ‘’ key switch’’.
are they having a key problem or an electrical switch problem ? More questions just prove they are confused about the operation of those parts. Ahh the joy of parts diagrams. )

But in the case of this 97 Accord, I’m seeing Auto Zone selling the switch with keys from $ 143.00 to $ 188.00 depending on model and trans. as well as the 54 dollar switch. ( I don’t have quick access to Honda parts )
O’Reilly’s has just a switch for about $ 54.00

…and, because there were recalls on some Honda models due to bad ignition switches, I would suggest that the OP phone the service department at his local Honda dealership, give them his VIN, and ask, “Are there any outstanding recalls on this car?”.

Recalls never expire, and as long as the parts are still available, the repair would be free at a Honda dealership–as long as this VIN is part of a recall. Normally, an independent mechanic would be far cheaper than a dealership, but, when it comes to recalls, the dealership’s no-cost repair will trump any indy mechanic’s fee.

Check with the dealership before you go anywhere for this repair.

Thanks all - I did call Honda. They said my car has no recall. They thought an ignition problem was unlikely, but there might be a problem with the remote entry module wiring malfunctioning or those wires and to look into that first. Do you agree?

Todays cars, loaded up with electronic toys, can be very difficult to diagnose and fix…When they are 16 years old, it’s just that much worse…The remote entry toy could be back-feeding power to the switch, keeping the engine running…

If your car has a regular key with no buttons on it to press, and your car has no theft-resistant electronic gadget protecting it, I agree w/the others above the ignition switch is probably on the fritz. If not that, probably a sticking engine main relay. If your car has a remote entry key, one where you press a button, or an anti-theft system, one of those could indeed could be the problem. It should be fairly easy for a mechanic to diagnose in any event. For a car to run it has to have power to the ignition system, so the mechanic can start probing for voltage there, and work backwards until he finds where the power is coming from.