All of my electric door locks failed over the last 3 months. Rear doors first, then passanger front, then, Drivers front and tailgate. All work mannually.
What would cause this type of cascading failure? Honda dealer said all actuators must be replaced. Another mechanic said the front drivers side controls all doors and that unit must be replace. Confused.
There is a unit called the multiplexer that drives the door locks up and down. Switches can be tested easily with a meter. It could be the individual lock motors, but I would suspect the multiplexer.
Thanks for the wiring diagram @knfenimore. I agree, the multiplexer sure looks to be the suspect here. I am a little baffled by one thing though. The OP stated the rear hatch actuator stopped working along with the driver side door but the rear hatch is tied to power along with the rear doors, not the driver’s door. I can’t explain how that could happen unless the hatch really went out with the rear doors.
Before doing any parts replacement I would make sure that power and ground connections to the circuit are good as that very well could be the real cause of issue here. If the multiplexer doesn’t get enough current drive for the motors due to a power problem they won’t work and the rear doors will have the greatest load on the circuit since there are four motors in parallel with each other. The driver’s door has its own own circuit leg. The resistance to the front passenger side door may have a little less resistance in it compared to the rear doors and may explain why it worked a little longer, until more added resistance in the power line killed it also.
I had the same problem with my 2003 CR-V, all 4 lock actuators had to be replaced> there is a class action lawsuit against Honda for CR-V models 2007-2011 (http://www.chimicles.com/honda-and-acura-door-lock-actuator-failure) but it appears that the problem is much more widespread. The local dealer (Herb Chambers Honda, Boston) claims ignorance on the subject. I have serious doubts on the latter…
I kind of have a hard time believing the trouble is really with the lock solenoid since they are a relatively simple device and usually can stand abuses much more than the electronics can that operate them. They can be tested real easy by manually applying power to them to see if they are working of not. I could see the problem really being caused by the reverse inductive kick action that happens when a coil is connected and then disconnected to power. Placing a capacitor across the solenoid coil would reduce that voltage. Looking at the video provided in the link I would guess that is what is causing the locks to relock after the command to unlock them is sent by the key fob. Checking the action using the inside switch should be done also as the trouble might actually be due to the key fob.
As stated by Cougar Does the inside switch work? I assumed that they wanted to replace it, so it does not work. Does it work?
How do you check if the you need an activator versus a electrical issue
How will you know what the real issue is about the lock is there way to check?