Where can I purchase a distributor for a 2003 Dodge Neon SE?
The engine is running rough, the gas mileage has degraded, and the Check-Engine light is ON.
We went to an AutoParts Store to have them read the car's computer output to tell us why the Check-Engine light is ON.
The results said that the No. 4 Cylinder was not firing consistently.
We replaced all four spark plugs and the spark plug wires.
It ran a little better but the Check-Engine light is still ON and the engine still runs rough.
I think we should replace the distributor or maybe just the distributor cap (if possible?).
But I can't seem to find ANYONE in town or on the Internet that sells a distributor or even parts of a distributor for a 2003 Dodge Neon SE.
Any recommendations?
Thanks.
Comments
If you're looking for the next/easiest/fastest part to replace in hopes of fixing this you could try a coil assembly.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThe misfire code just means that combustion didn't take place. Spark is only one thing you need for combustion. You also need compression. So pull the plugs back out and check the compression. You also need the correct fuel/air mix. So you'll want to check out the #4 fuel injector. You can inspect the wiring & harness. You can use a "noid" light to have a look at the power supply to the injector. You can use an ohmeter to check the injectors resistance. You can also swap the #4 injector with another and find out if the misfire moves with the injector.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThe OP said # 4 was not firing consistantly. Does that sound like a lack of compression??
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI was asking if this sounds like a problem with the compression. I don't think so.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeIf the spark is a problem on a cylinder it WILL set a misfire code.
If compression or fuel or air are a problem on a cylinder that can ALSO result in the same misfire code. The codes come from having combustion not take place in the cylinder. In most cars the actual report usually comes from a glitch in the crank sensor signal. Nothing monitors the actual spark.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeDid the OP mean that #4 was consistantly not firing, or not firing consistantly. I didn't realize he meant consistantly not firing. That COULD be low compression.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeAside from that - as I already said - there is no code reading procedure that's going to tell you that you have an inconsistent spark. Or maybe you think that the lackey behind the counter at the auto parts store whipped out his pocket oscilloscope and checked out the actual ignition signal traces? Or used his extra-special x-ray glasses to watch the spark plug through the cylinder head while the car ran?
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeDid the OP mean that #4 was consistantly not firing, or not firing consistantly There is a difference!!
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeDetails about a problem always help but compression is something that I would have checked first thing. The spark plugs are out so kill that bird right then and there.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeDid the OP mean that #4 was consistantly not firing, or not firing consistantly"
How would I know what the OP meant? All I can tell you is what the OP meant in this regard is irrelevant.
Could poor compression be an issue either way? YES!
Elly, I have no idea why you occasionally get in these long, drawn out go 'rounds with people about absolutely nothing. But its not worthwhile and I am through responding to your posts. It won't help the OP and I have said everything there is to say about it. If you still don't understand what causes a "misfire" code then I really don't care.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeWe have a report of a rough running car and a check engine light. We have a report of a trip to an auto parts store for code reading. The interpretation of the code reading given by the OP had to do with cylinder 4 and "firing." I will lay 100 to 1 odds that the actual "results" found at the AP store was trouble code P0304. This code indicates that a misfire was detected on the #4 cylinder. Its pretty much the only code that would have someone come away with the interpretation given in the post. There are no codes for "not firing consistently," there are no systems that monitor the actual spark, and there are no procedures in place at auto parts stores that would allow one to determine this.
As to what a misfire code indicates, I have already explained that. It is not in any way based on any actual detection of an issue with spark. It does not tell you that spark is lacking. It does not tell you that spark is consistent or inconsistent. It simply tells you that combustion didn't happen in a cylinder. That is all. The report is generated when the crank position sensor picks up a glitch in the rotation of the crank shaft. Period. Unless the OP clarifies there is no way to know. But I'm still on 100 to 1 odds that neither the auto parts store people nor the OP have any actual knowledge whatsoever of the spark that may or may not be occurring consistently or inconsistently in any of the cylinders. All there is here is a half-baked interpretation of a misfire code.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeI am sorry that we haven't been able to communicate accuratly.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeIts doesn't matter though because the "not firing consistently" is not something I take to be accurate. It might be true. It might not be true. But whether it is true or not does not change the possible causes.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree Likeforgive me, I am just obtuse, I have barely been able to drive a car, not to mention fixing one. I have been able to keep my own cars running for 60 years tho.
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Off Topic Disagree Agree Like"Cigroller" and "EllyEllis" were right. The problem was ultimately found to be poor compression in the Number 1 Cylinder. When the new coil assembly failed to correct the problem, I took the car to a good mechanic (with lots of positive reviews in the Internet) and that's what he determined. He thinks the compression problem could be due a problem with the valves, piston rings, or possibly something worse with the cylinder head (?). In any event, it's going to be big bucks to get if fixed. :-(
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Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeIf you do decide to do this repair, do some quick reading up on the basics of an internal combustion engine. The valves are in the cylinder head, so any valve problem pretty much means head work by necessity. But its also the case that you don't really have to guess about whether the problem is in the head or the block (down where the pistons/rings are). A cylinder leakdown test can tell someone that.
Its also the case that for many cars remanufactured heads are available at very good good prices. Whether you decide to mess with the car or not, I don't know. But if it needs head work you can often do better finding a remanned head supplier. (Your head would become a core exchange).
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