So I've been dealing with a continuous check engine light on my car for over 2 years with several hypothesis from different shops. The one symptom my car has is that from a stop or slow speed it sometimes hesitates to actually move when giving it gas. Then it will suddenly kick in and all is fine. This all started after having an O2 sensor replaced when my check engine light came on once - at that time there were absolutely no symptoms, no hesitation. Then the hesitation began, but the shop said it had nothing to do with the new O2 sensor and they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. Shop
#2 said I needed a new catalytic converter. I decided to get another opinion and went to shop
#3. Shop
#3 said it definitely was NOT the catalytic converter, but probably an O2 sensor...but I that I have 7 O2 sensors and since nothing was showing up on their diagnostic tests there was no way to know which one. To replace all 7 would be around $750. The manager said he'd feel perfectly comfortable driving my car to California and back and that if I didn't mind the symptoms it wouldn't hurt to go without the repair...although I might lose a little gas mileage if the O2 wasn't registering properly. So I've driven another two years on the car with no problems except for the occassional annoying hesitation. But NOW it's time for an emissions test and I confirmed by calling the 800# that the car simply will not pass the emissions test if the check engine light is on for any reason. And when I've had the mechanic manually turn of the check engine light, it comes back on usually the same day, sometimes almost immediately, so I don't think I can just get it turned off to take the test. Any suggestions? Is it indeed an O2 sensor? Should I bite the bullet and pay for the repair? Since the shop isn't certain, my fear is I'll pay $750 just to keep having the same problem. Could it be something else?? Why does the stupid emissions test have to be based on such a silly thing that probably doesn't effect my emissions whatsoever. I mean, I'm all for reducing green house gases, but c'mon, this is silly. Any help would be greatly appreciated! My test is due on January 12th.
Thanks!
K
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeBut if you could provide the actual diagnostic code(s) that's stored in the computer it would narrow it down. Parts stores like Auto Zone will pull codes for free.
Tester
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeIf your car had 7 O2 sensors, which it does not, you would not likely be getting off the hook for a total replacement cost of 750 dollars.
Other than agreeing that you should get a parts house to scan the car and post any codes, one issue with something like this is the fact this has gone on for several years. What may have originally been a minor 5 minute fix (vacuum leak for example) may have snowballed and created a number of problems.
And emissions can be affected whether any driveability problem is noticed or not.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeIf the code pulled is a P0420, which seems to be common on Corolla's, then I wish you the best of luck. The first thing that mechanics jump on for this code is the catalytic converter, and most of the time it doesn't fix it. More often, the second O2 sensor, the one behind the cat will solve it, but not always.
My daughters Corolla has this problem, and so far nothing has worked. A co worker had this with her 09 Corolla. It took many visits to the dealer to get it fixed, but the dealer will not say what they did to fix it and did not supply a repair receipt for that last visit.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeAs to the second question, why does the emissions teat have to be based on such a silly thing, nobody can answer that one. We've discussed this at length ourselves, and the only answer is that it's all politics. And revenue.
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0 • Off Topic Disagree Agree LikeThat check engine light code would be very helpful also.
Regardless of what year Corolla it is, it most likely only has 2 O2 sensors.
They typically cost between $50 and $150 each, and you should only need to pay 1 hours worth of labor to install them. So, tops, you should be paying about $450 for both.
Hesitations, however, can be caused by so many different things, I can't list them all.
Here's my short list, however:
MAF Sensor.
Dirty Throttle body sticking.
Faulty EGR, or controlling solenoid.
Faulty spark plugs or ignition wires (when was the last time you had these replaced?)
Faulty distributor cap or rotor, or ignition coil stick.
BC.
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