Join the Car Talk Community!

Discussion Rules

Welcome to the Car Talk Community!

Want to ask a question or join the discussion? Great! Join now.

Sign In Register

overheating

Yes I have done a complete flush and it has been bleed that right way and I ve already know the car is very very picky it seem like u had to do everything exactly right! Yes the fan is always at the same speed my car is a 2002 lincon LS V8! I have not replace fan motor jus fan pump. I have not ck the plastic unit yet degas tank holder no it was a thought to me yestursday cus I see steam from there and water raise so I know my car is hot! Mmm I'm thinkin of puttin an electric fan stop the other fan or keep it as well jus add electric can that be done? Is there a sensor to the fan motor do u know of or relay? Can u help me here plz
Tagged:

Comments

  • edited December 2010
    It would be easier to help if you would reply to my replies to your original thread.
    There have been a few people who have converted the hydraulic fan to the electric fan from the newer models. It's not for the faint of heart. Here is an example.
    http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=70387&highlight=hydraulic
  • edited December 2010
    Ok I'm replayin to u sorry I'm new to this! So what do u think I should do put electric or just replace the fan motor! When my car gets hot I see steam coming from the degas container iso I know its hot very its like it comes bk threw there? Yes I hear the fan click on but it doesn look like it speeds any faster then what it is. Its blowin but not at a high speed that I hear but it click on like I said!what are y thoughts my car is a 2002 lincon LS V8
  • edited December 2010

    * Cooling system leaks -- Loss of coolant because of a coolant leak is probably the most common cause of engine overheating. Possible leak points include hoses, the radiator, heater core, water pump, thermostat housing, head gasket, freeze plugs, automatic transmission oil cooler, cylinder head(s) and block.
    Make a careful visual inspection of the entire cooling system, and then PRESSURE TEST the cooling system and radiator cap. A pressure test will reveal internal leaks such as seepage past the head gasket as well as cracks in the head or block. A good system should hold 12 to 15 psi for 15 minutes or more with no loss in pressure. If it leaks pressure, there is an internal coolant leak (most likely a bad head gasket but possibly also a cracked cylinder or engine block).
    It is important to pressure test the radiator cap, too, because a weak cap (or one with too low a pressure rating for the application) will lower the coolant's boiling point and can allow coolant to escape from the radiator.
    * Leaky Head Gasket -- Bad news because repairs are expensive. A leaky head gasket can allow coolant to seep into the engine's cylinders or crankcase. Symptoms include a loss of coolant with no visible external leaks, and white steam in the exhaust, especially after restarting the engine when it has sit for awhile. A leaky head gasket can be diagnosed by pressure testing the cooling system, or by using a "block checker" that pulls air from the cooling system into a cylinder that contains a special blue colored leak detection liquid. If there are any combustion gases in the coolant, the color of the liquid inside the detector will change from blue to green. A leaky head gasket can often be temporarily sealed by adding a sealer product to the cooling system. But for bad leaks or ones that cannot be stopped with sealer, the head gasket has to be replaced.
    * Fan Not Working -- With mechanical fans, most engine overheating problems are caused by a faulty fan clutch, though a missing fan shroud can reduce the fan's cooling effectiveness by as much as 50% (depending on the fan's distance from the radiator) which may be enough to cause the engine to overheat in hot weather or when working hard.
    Defective fan clutches are a common and often overlooked cause of engine overheating. The shear characteristics of the clutch fluid gradually deteriorates over time, with an average loss in drive efficiency of about 200 rpm per year. Eventually slippage reaches the point where effective cooling is no longer possible and overheating results. (On average, the life of a fan clutch is about the same as a water pump. If one needs to be replaced, the other usually does too.)
    If the fan clutch shows signs of fluid leakage (oily streaks radiating outward from the hub of the clutch), spins freely with little or no resistance when the engine is off, or wobbles when the fan is pushed in or out, it needs to be replaced.
    With an electric cooling fan, check to see that the fan cycles on when the engine gets hot and when the air conditioner is on. If the fan fails to come on, check the fan motor wiring connections, fan relay and temperature sensor. Try jumping the fan directly to the battery. If it runs, the problem is in the wiring, relay or sensor. If it fails to run, the fan motor is bad and needs to be replaced.
    With a hydraulic cooling fan, the fan must be turning fast enough to provide adequate cooling at idle and low speed.
    * Leaky Water pump -- Any wobble in the pump shaft or seepage would call for replacement. In some instances, a pump can cause an engine to overheat if the impeller vanes are badly eroded due to corrosion or if the impeller has come loose from the shaft. The wrong pump may also cause an engine to overheat. Some engines with serpentine drive belts require a special water pump that turns in the opposite direction of those used on the same engine with ordinary V-belts.

    It does not happen very often, but sometimes the water pump impeller can loosen up on the pump shaft and not turn, although the water pump pulley appears to be turning normally. If the impeller does not spin, there will be little or no circulation of coolant through the engine. The only way to know if this is the problem is to remove the water pump and check the impeller to see that is is tight on the shaft. Also, some plastic impellers can become severely eroded over time. So can the water pump housing. The loss of blade area or an increase in clearance between the housing and impeller will reduce the flow of coolant and can lead to engine overheating.
    * Slipping Belt -- Check belt tension and condition. A loose belt that slips may prevent the water pump from circulating coolant fast enough and/or the fan from turning fast for proper cooling.
    * Lower Radiator Hose Collapsing -- A pinched hose (upper or lower) or a lower radiator hose that is collapsing and blocking the flow of coolant when the engine is running can cause engine overheating. The lower hose usually has a metal reinforcing wire inside that looks like a large spring. It s purpose is to prevent the hose from collapsing when the water pump is pulling water through the hose. If this wire is missing or has failed due to corrosion, the hose may collapse.
    *Plugged or Dirty Radiator -- Dirt, dead bugs and debris can block air flow through the radiator and reduce its ability to dissipate heat. Internal corrosion and an accumulation of deposits can also block the flow of coolant. A good way to find internal clogs is to use an infrared thermometer to "scan" the surface of the radiator for cold spots. If clogged, the radiator should be removed for cleaning or replaced. Backflushing the cooling system and/or using chemical cleaners can remove rust and hard water scale, but may do little to open up a clogged radiator.
    When refilling the cooling system, be sure you get it completely full. Air pockets in the head(s), heater core and below the thermostat can interfere with proper coolant circulation and cooling. If the cooling system has no bleeder valves to vent air, you may have to temporarily loosen a heater hose to get all the air out of the system.
    *Excessive exhaust backpressure -- A clogged catalytic converter will restrict the flow of exhaust and cause heat to back up in the engine. Other causes include a crushed exhaust pipe or a collapsed double wall pipe. Check intake vacuum at idle. If intake vacuum reads low and continues to drop, inspect the exhaust system
  • edited December 2010
    Since you say the fan doesn't change speed, then you know that the fan system has a fault.

    1. Unless you like tinkering with cars, it would be better to fix the hydraulic fan system than to convert to electric. You will have to go somewhere that is used to working on the LS or the Jaguar S-Type. Often they want to replace the whole system rather than figure out what is wrong.

    2. Since you say that you see steam coming off the degas bottle, you know that it is cracked. It will have to be replaced. Get a new one from Ford. Do not get the aftermarket one. It is thinner and lasts half as long as the Ford part.

    3. Since the engine has been overheating (due to the problems above) you can be sure that the plastic parts of the radiator hoses and of the thermostat housing are cracked or will crack shortly. I recommend changing all of those too.



  • edited December 2010
    Ok I'm going to replace the fan motor and degas tank to be on the safe side see how the car does even the housein of the thermista just to be safe I will let u know the up date on my car as soon as I do this ok thank u for everything be safe have a good holiday to u best wishes bye and thank u again
This discussion has been closed.