I have a truck I keep for work around the house, hauling stuff and such and because a man is supposed to have a truck, right? Well, it sits unused a lot and, as it will happen, the battery gave up the ghost. I had been jump starting it to do things that could be done without shutting off the motor. I am a member of the West Virginia Air National Guard and had an item I needed to drop off to a fellow airman so I needed the truck for a day. I decided to charge the battery while at work and drive it in the afternoon to a battery store to replace the battery on site saving myself the trip to return the core. That was mistake number one. I work in Washington D.C. an hour and a half from my home in rural West Virginia. At 4:30 AM I pulled my Toyota Matrix up to my Ford Ranger and hooked up the jumper cables. This should have been done with the aid of a flashlight but, I believed I knew my battery pretty well having jumped it so many times. It didn?t help that when I bought the truck used it was missing that rubber boot that is usually on the positive side of the battery. You have probably already guessed that I put the cables on the wrong post. As you know this is what is known as a ?bad idea?. As you also know it sent voltage through my trucks circuits in the wrong direction. You further understand that this negatively impacts a vehicles electrical system. There was a pop and a sizzle and then only my angry utterances as I told the darkened world exactly what I thought of my intelligence and, unfairly, what a piece of $#%& my truck was. So 1990 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6 four wheel drive Manley truck sits waiting for my afore mentioned intellect to improve. So far it is still waiting. Here is what I know; 550 cranking amps will blow two 60A alternator fuses $6.00 total. It will also fry your starter relay $15.00. Now I have crank but it is still not start. I have exhausted the cheap easy to fix parts and am down to two maybe three possibilities. 1) A fusible link. I would love this to be the trouble it would be the cheapest but I cannot find a link anywhere. 2) The electronic coil pack $98-$130. This engine has no distributor just a computer a coil pack and cam and crank position indicators. 3) The computer $100 plus shipping. I just do not know how to figure out what to replace. I am familiar with the replace them one at a time till it works philosophy and if it were not my money I would do just that. The system takes and OBE-1 reader that I do not have and cannot drive the truck to so that?s out. I have disconnected the coil and ran a continuity check to one plug across all the pins on the input with no continuity showing at all. This may mean nothing or it could be that my coil is shot. I am stuck what should I do? I figure if I have to tow it for $50 and pay $60 an hour to work on it plus parts of at least $100 I might as well start buying and trying myself.